I don’t
really like watching sports most of the time. I tried football for a while when
I was 10; my dad and I would watch Liverpool games back when they were good. But
aside from spending time with my dad, I quickly realised I didn’t enjoy it all
that much.
In the
past couple of years though, largely in part to the Superbowl screenings hosted
at the union bar at UEA, I’ve discovered that I really do enjoy watching
American Football. So when people were talking seeing the opening game that our
college team was playing, I was definitely interested in going. Of course, college
sports are actually a big deal here, it’s not anything like going to see a sports
match between university students back home. Rather than standing of the side
lines of one of the many courts in your university’s gymnasium, you’re going to
a giant stadium that will be accommodating not only you and people from your
college, but regular people from all over the state too.
Sports are
religions in America, and for whatever reason, none inspires more devotion than
American Football. People travel hours for it, plan their schedules around it, fight
over it, and create rituals and ceremonies surrounding it.
On our
approach to the stadium, even a good half mile before we were at the gates, we
could see throngs of people lining the streets, all deeply engaged in the
pre-game worship ritual known as tailgating. This activity, borne from trying
to drink before the game to avoid paying stadium prices for beer, has since
turned into an animal of its own. The basic idea is to pick a few square feet
of land somewhere outside the stadium, and then claim it as yours; setting up
barbeques and lawn chairs, blankets, maybe even small tents, and of course,
crates upon crates of beer.
It goes
deeper than that though. To pass the time people play all those old style games
you might have found at a school fair or something, like horseshoes, beanbags
etc. People even bring their children, in fact it’s pretty common actually.
These events end up being a family day out, a binge drinking session, and a
sports match all rolled into one. In some circles in fact, the tailgate is more
important than the game itself, with some people never even setting foot inside
the stadium, but continuing to tailgate throughout the match.
We saw our
first tailgaters whilst we were still a good half mile from the stadium, and it
wasn’t long after that until the horizon became a haze of barbeques, pick-up
trucks, and fold-up lawn chairs. This mass prayer circle served as sort of yellow-brick
road to the stadium for us, albeit one draped in the school colours of orange
and blue.
We arrived
at the stadium just as the day was starting to lose its light. The sky, now
tinged with the beginnings of darkness, was adding a hint of the dramatic to
the mood as we made our approach. The stadium itself stood tall over the masses
of people beneath it; the fans rushing to get inside, the vendors selling snow
cones and hot dogs from their vans, the ticket collectors, the local band
playing to them all, and of course, the tents full of tailgaters in the
background, all found themselves clothed in its shadow as the sun disappeared
behind it.
This was
on a scale I wasn’t prepared for, you could fit my local football stadium into
here multiple times over, and the amount of people that turn up for the games
there into here many more than that. I’m not from a place in England where
something this size is even possible; there aren’t many where it would be,
truth be told. But the crazy thing is this, this isn’t a crazy thing here. This
is normal, this is how it is everywhere here. Hell, Illinois aren’t even that
good of a team, but this is still what happens when they play a game, people
flock here by the thousands so that they may fall on their knees and worship.
The
opening game had been big, but it wasn’t until a few weeks later that I
witnessed this phenomenon at its fullest. Homecoming weekend is when all the
Alumni come back to visit their Alma Mater. Former frat and sorority members
get hosted in their old homes, parties are thrown in their honour and
celebrations last all weekend. But the crown jewel of the proceedings is the
football game held that weekend. The stadium gets filled, roads are closed, the
marching band parades through the streets, people adorn themselves in orange
and blue,
and most importantly, everyone gets very, very drunk.
The game
was at 2:30pm in the afternoon, so we started "preparing ourselves" considerably before that. As none of us, insufferably, are legal drinkers, we
had to first, earlier in the week, get people’s brothers and the like to get
our alcohol for us. Then when we did start drinking, we had to do it covertly;
behind closed doors in someone’s room, trying our best to keep the noise down
as we continued to get drunker and drunker. When we actually headed out to the
game too, we each took bottles of Gatorade with us that were also, in large
part, filled with vodka.
I don’t
really know if the alcohol helped us cope when we started losing, or whether it
just made it that much worse, but I definitely know it spurred our decision to
leave early and get food once we realised Illinois weren’t going to win. I’ve
always valued the part of the night where everyone gets food quite highly, and
at this point, I’ve been thoroughly convinced that America does it better than
the UK. This is simply because, as with everything here, if you want to go
extreme with it, you really can.
There’s a place on campus called Fat Sandwich, a name that possibly does more to paint a picture of it for you than I ever
could. The gist is, all the drunk food you could ever think of, shoved into a
sandwich all at once. I mean, cheesesteak, bacon, eggs, fried chicken,
mozzarella sticks, chicken fingers, fries, and all manner of other deep fried items,
all stuffed between two pieces of bread. I’ve only been once so far, but it may
be the most glorious, heart-clogging, disgusting, delicious, monstrosity I’ve
ever eaten in my life. It is America in a sandwich, and it beats a Donner Kebab
to a bloody pulp.
On the occasion in question though, we went to a Mexican place that was also excellent,
and got back to our dorms and passed out before dark. I woke up at 10:00pm with a hangover, but despite that, would still have to call the event a
huge success. Definitely better than a frat party, for sure.
As for
school itself, the semester was now properly underway. Introductions were over
and it was time to start getting into the meat of things. After reaching the
end of the first week and receiving my first round of homework, the differences
in the approach to education between here and the UK made themselves
immediately apparent. Unlike in the UK, where I get 10 pieces that actually
count towards my grade a semester, all of which will challenge my understanding
of what I’ve learnt significantly, here the system doesn’t differ a ton from
the way it worked in high school; homework in every class every week, all of
which is more a test of comprehension rather than an actual challenge. To
balance all this out though, the kicker is that they expect you to get a much
higher percentage of it all correct; 93% is the minimum for an A, for example.
With adjusting to life here, continuing to get to know people, and now all
this, I quickly found myself very busy all at once.
In fact,
before I even knew what was happening to me, I soon found myself working around
12 hours a day, every day. There were homework assignments, readings, and even
essays to be done, which as a math student, was not something I was prepared to
deal with at all. One course forced me to write a full page on my opinions
about straight lines; I was not impressed.
That
aside, it became rapidly obvious that even with the different approach here, this
amount of work was not normal; no one I knew was in the same situation as me.
At the time I attributed it to me being in final year and them being freshman,
but it wasn’t until a few days later, when I went to go get my schedule signed
off on for study abroad purposes, that I was informed of the truth.
"This
schedule looks insane!" said the math advisor as I sat down.
I was
confused, I was taking roughly the same amount of hours as everyone else I
knew. "How so?" I enquired.
"You’re
taking 4 top level math courses right now, most math majors only take 2 a
semester" she said. "The courses are quite intensive for you to be taking this much at once."
"…Oh." I
replied. Suddenly things were becoming a lot clearer than they had been
previously.
"I can’t
believe no one told you you’re not supposed to do this!"
Neither could I. Not a single person I had
talked to so far during the academic side of the process so far had said
anything about this, so I had just assumed it was normal to take that much.
This was yet another example I had encountered of no one in study abroad really
knowing anything about anything at all. Now safe in the knowledge that it was
okay to do so, I dropped the course that had dared make me write an essay
without another second’s thought.
Dropping a class was excellent news as far as my
wallet was concerned too, as that meant I had one less textbook to buy from the
bookstore. Unlike at UEA, where lecture notes are put up online after classes,
universities over here just make you buy textbooks for everything instead.
These books can cost anywhere upwards of $100, and so a lot of classes can mean
a lot of expenses too. In fact, to help soften the financial blow, you can
actually rent some textbooks for a lower price than outright buying them. I
tried to do this with some of the stuff I needed, but the woman at the kiosk
told me I had to show my state ID first. As I explained to her the exact reason
that I didn’t have one, I discovered that she was actually surprised to find
that I wasn’t American, my voice apparently hadn’t given me away.
As the
weeks have gone on, I’ve found this experience to be considerably more common
than you might initially imagine. An overwhelming majority of people when I
first meet them either don’t realise I’m not American, or at the very least
don’t realise I’m British. I think my voice is different enough from the
British accents people have in films, that they don’t always place it for a few
minutes.
Either way
it always catches people off-guard, even if they don’t always realise I’m from
somewhere else, it doesn’t stop me from having trouble being understood when I
first meet someone. Talking to people working retail is always a challenge; I’m
never loud enough for them, for starters. As well as accent troubles, I’ve
discovered there’s also a difference in volume between our two cultures that’s
very hard for me to break through.
My name gets messed up a lot in particular;
after the fourth or fifth time of having someone at a fast food place shout
“Selmen” or “Salmon” or something like that to notify me of my food being
ready, I’ve since started telling them that my name is Frank. No matter what
accent you say it in, nobody’s going to get Frank wrong.
Even
amongst the people that I live with, I sometimes see things getting lost in
translation. I’ve had to change some of my speech patterns and phrases since
being here. I talk a little bit slower now, I enunciate a bit more than I would
at home, and I cut out what little British slang I did use. Even stuff like
saying “High school” instead of “Secondary school” for example, just saves a 30
second detour from the conversation where I have to explain the difference
between the two. Sometimes it can feel a little bit galling doing stuff like
that, like I’m casting off the place that I came from in a way, but it’s the
difference between an easy conversation and one where I have to double back on
myself and explain my meaning every few seconds.
Even ignoring cultural differences though, it can be hard to feel like I belong here sometimes (Not to go too depressive here, but I don’t want to shy
away from anything this year entails.). The temporal nature of
this year makes me kind of an outsider by definition. The people I’m with are
going to continue getting to know each other for another four years, but I’ll
be nothing but a memory to them soon. Sometimes I feel more like an extended
visitor than someone that actually lives here. Who knows? Maybe that’s what I
am.
Understandably,
I think about home a lot. Obviously I like where I am now, but sometimes I
think about the year I could have had with the friends I already knew, and
mourn its loss. Once, someone back home sent me pictures of my old flat
together for someone’s birthday. It was a nice thought to include me, but
ultimately it just made me sad that I wasn’t there with them, that I had chosen
to abandon them in favour of adding yet more strangers to my life.
I never
used to think I’d get homesick, because I didn’t really used to in Norwich. But
I also never accounted for the isolation you can feel when there’s just nobody
around you that has quite the same reference points as you. I miss knowing
people with the same views as me, I miss knowing people with the same
upbringing as me, I miss simply knowing that I’ll be understood when I say something.
Maybe I
should have just made friends with international people, that’s what most other
internationals do. That way, you’re not the only one that doesn’t always fit
in; you all don’t fit in together. My view on that in the beginning
though was that it was cheating; I wanted the real American experience. Now
though, more and more I’m discovering that maybe not all those doors are open
to me.
Overall
though, I find I’m still more than happy with my decisions. The people I know
here are great, despite our differences, and my old life will be there in a few
months; it’s not going anywhere. Meanwhile, my time here is limited, and
there’s still so much more to do. In fact, I should probably get doing it.
Until next
time.
Simon Flower
Simon Flower